Fragrant, freshly baked rice cakes set on woven platters are a favourite snack with farmers. 'We sell congee in the very early mornings, and later, rice cakes - as many as 800 in a day!' says the busy owner. Before dawn, fires are lit and the cakes are baked, ready for the first customers. When all the cakes are sold, they start preparing for the next day - grinding flour, mixing dough and allowing it to ferment in ceramic jars.